Maple Leaves Forever
  • News
  • About
    • About MLF
    • Our Team
    • Our Board of Directors
  • Sponsorships
  • Nursery Partners
    • Our Partners
    • Partner Qualifications
  • Contact
    • Apply for Rebate
    • Donate
  • Search
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Instagram
  • LinkedIn
  • What is a Native Canadian Maple?
  • Why do Maples matter?
  • Care and Planting Guides
  • Thank You Rebate

Caring for your maple

To Prune or Not To Prune Maples in Winter?

Posted by MLF Webmaster on
 December 29, 2020

As your beautiful native maples drop their leaves and their branching structure becomes more evident, you may be tempted to perform some winter pruning. Generally, for deciduous trees, this would be the ideal time. When the trees lay dormant and the branches are more easily visible, it is very practical to perform the removal of dead, dying or interfering limbs. For maples, any pruning or wounds created during this period may cause an excessive loss of sap known as ‘bleeding’.

Photo Credit:
https://livinginaurora.ca/nature/bleeding-red-maple-trees-the-cry-after-winter/

Although this bleeding is not fatal to the tree, and is mainly an aesthetic issue, it can be an open invitation for harmful pests and disease to feed on the sweet sugary sap. This coursing liquid is mainly composed of water and nutrients that travel up from the roots to feed the buds as they begin to swell in preparation for spring. This pathway from roots to buds is made possible by the vascular system. A network of conducting tissues that support the movement of water, dissolved minerals and food throughout the tree. The pressure of this upward movement through the tree’s vascular system is greater in spring than in any other time of year due to the rise of outdoor temperatures.

Photo Credit: https://www.tcia.org/TCIA/Blog_Items/2015/How_to_Prune_a_Bleeding_Tree.aspx

Unless you’re tapping sugar maples in the anticipation of making syrup, native maple trees are best left untouched throughout late winter and into spring. The best time for pruning a maple tree is in mid-summer, when the leaves have fully expanded and have turned a dark green. The exception would be the removal of any dead branches, which can be done at any time of year, or those that are of imminent threat to person or property. This time of year provides a great opportunity to view the branching structure and make plans for any future pruning needs. Placing a ribbon or tie on any branches that need to be removed or pruned back can aid as a reminder once the leaves have flushed and the branches are not as easily visible.

For more information about how to properly prune your maple tree go to:

Pruning young sugar maple trees

Other Resources:

https://www.tcia.org/TCIA/Blog_Items/2015/How_to_Prune_a_Bleeding_Tree.aspx

Written by Caitlin Ayling, MLF Nursery Liaison and Andrew Cowell, MLF Arborist

Caring for your maple News

Gypsy Moth Update – Informative Webinar and Collecting Egg Masses Contest

Posted by MLF Webmaster on
 October 14, 2020

This year has seen a rise in the number of Gypsy Moths and caterpillars, which affect native maple trees as well as other species. In areas with severe outbreaks, “trees and shrubs are completely defoliated over large areas; despite the trees’ ability to produce a new crop of leaves over the summer, the damage causes significant growth loss” (https://www.ontario.ca/page/gypsy-moth)

One effective way to reduce the spread of this invasive pest is to collect and destroy their egg masses before they hatch.

The Invasive Species Centre and Eastern Ontario Model Forest are currently running a contest to encourage residents to remove EGM egg masses from their trees. They hope to limit the spread of the destructive caterpillars and moths by working together to collect 500 or more egg masses across Ontario. There are even prizes being offered as incentive to collect as many as possible!

Find out more and enter the contest here: www.invasivespeciescentre.ca/take-action/edrr-network/european-gypsy-moth-egg-scraping-contest/

Learn more about the European Gypsy Moth and how to manage this pest by watching this webinar:  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A70AoBORNQ4

All About Maples Caring for your maple News

Caterpillar and Moth pests – update Summer 2020

Posted by MLF Webmaster on
 June 30, 2020

This article is a follow up to Carl Mansfield, tree consultant for MLF farm visit on September 7, 2019.  On June 22, 2020,  Deb Pella Keen, Executive Director, MLF visited the MLF farm with Ken Jewett, founder of MLF.   We again observed the Lymantria dispar dispar (also known as gypsy moth) larvae feeding on several trees, and one unusual host tree, a larch.   Digging in the internet we found some interesting information on gypsy moths.  There are now two known species of gypsy moth invaders in North America: the European Gypsy Moth (EGM; Lymantria dispar dispar) introduced to Canada over 130 years ago and now the Asian Gypsy Moth (AGM; Lymantria dispar asiatica) which while not known to be established in Canada, was first recorded in 1991 in North American at the port in Vancouver, BC according to the US Department of Agriculture (see PDF).

Although in many ways similar to the EGM, the discovery of the Asian gypsy moth strain (AGM) in Canada has raised new concerns. According to Health Canada, the Asian gypsy moth prefers coniferous trees, is better adapted to colder climates, and the female is able to fly longer distances. These traits make the Asian gypsy moth a serious threat to Canadian forests.

The spread of the gypsy moth has been largely attributed to the movement of firewood, as well as outdoor recreational and household articles.  Knowing how to detect, report and manage gypsy moth could significantly reduce and limit the spread of gypsy moth to new areas.  So if you find gypsy moth larvae (caterpillars) this summer, do your part for citizen science and download this app (EDDMapS Ontario) and report your finding. 

EDDMapS is a web-based mapping system for documenting invasive species and pest distribution. It was developed by the Center for Invasive Species and Ecosystem Health at the University of Georgia, and since its launch in 2005 has now expanded to include the entire US and Canada. As of June 2020, EDDMapS had over 4.9 million records.

We did our part in reporting our finding of a gypsy moth larvae at the MLF farm and while it is highly unlikely (we certainly hope!) that the gypsy moth we found was an AGM, it is important that we all learn more about these destructive invasive species.

For more information on gypsy moth in Canada and how you can control and prevent the spread of the gypsy moth see these links:

  • forestinvasives.ca/Meet-the-Species/Insects/European-Gypsy-Moth
  • www.canada.ca/en/health-canada/services/pest-control-tips/gypsy-moths.html

All About Maples Caring for your maple News

Fall-Winter tree care PSA – protect from animal damage

Posted by MLF Webmaster on
 October 22, 2019

In the later fall and winter, when other food sources are scarce, voles, mice and rabbits eat the bark and underlying tissue of young trees. Voles frequently girdle a tree by removing a continuous strip of bark and cambium around the circumference of the tree, usually within 30 cm of the base of the tree. Trees do not recover from this girdling and usually die during the following year.

Some commercially available repellents used by fruit growers can effectively  discourage voles, rabbits and deer from feeding on trees. SKOOT and other brand name repellents contain Thiram, a distasteful but harmless fungicide that discourages animals from taking a second bite. With a paint-like consistency, the repellent can be painted onto the tree’s bark from below the original soil line to a height of 150-175 cm to discourage deer browsing, and feeding by rabbits and voles.

Before applying the fungicide, the bark mulch and a few centimetres of soil is removed from the base of the tree to allow the property manager to paint the trunk of the tree from below soil level to a height of 150-175 cm with the repellent to discourage feeding by voles, rabbits and deer.

Ensure complete coverage when applying the repellent and follow the  package directions.

Where there is a known threat of vole and rabbit damage, a galvanized hardware cloth cylinder with a 6-8 mm square mesh can be set in place around the base of the tree and buried to a depth of 5 cm into the soil.

The soil and mulch is then returned to its original form and depth, covering a few cm of the painted trunk at the base of the tree before three 15-20 cm wire staples are used to fix the cylinder in place, centrally around the trunk of the tree. Short pieces of poly-coated wire secure the cylinder to a 125 cm stake, driven at least 25 cm into the soil.

Individual Tree Wraps and Tree Guards may be more effective where vole and rabbit damage is concerned, in areas where there is a low deer population and minimal risk deer browsing.

Rabbits and voles gnaw the bark of young trees, consuming the outer and inner bark, exposing the inner wood. If the chewing extends more than half way around the trunk, the tree may not survive.

Protect the tree by wrapping a soft, flexible plastic tree wrap around the trunk. Starting at the bottom, bury at least 5 cm of the wrap below soil line and work your way upward. Be sure to wrap beyond the typical snow line. Remove the wrap in the spring.

In areas where deer may be a problem from browsing or rubbing their antlers against the tree trunk, use a tree guard 100-125 cm in length.

Tree guards also offer some protection from winter sunscald

Many different tree wraps and protectors are available from garden centers and farm supply outlets. A flexible plastic tree wrap is shown above on the left. A ventilated, corrugated tree guard is shown on its right.  We used both of these tree protectors to protect the native maples that were planted recently. Both installations include the use of a hardware cloth cylinder supported by a sturdy stake.

More information available at:

Protecting Trees from Animal Damage: http://www.agr.gc.ca/eng/science-and-innovation/agricultural-practices/agroforestry/diseases-and-pests/protecting-trees-from-animal-damage/?id=1198877618448

All About Maples Caring for your maple News

Watering our young maples – Tree care on the MLF farm Part 2

Posted by MLF Webmaster on
 September 7, 2019

Newly planted trees (those planted within the past three years) require regular watering and care throughout the annual growing season. The first few years are the most critical to their long term survival and growth.

A 200-250 cm sugar maple sapling that was planted as a bare root tree in mid-May 2018. Note the hardwood mulch placed around the base of tree and the tree-watering bag set in place. The bag capacity is 65-70L when full with a draining time of  6-8 hours, but the bag content can be reduced when used for watering smaller sized trees.

Deep watering to a depth of 30-40 cm keeps the tree’s root zone moist (but not wet) and encourages rapid root regeneration that is essential to the tree’s reestablishment in its new environment.

MLF’s woodlot manager, Mike Fisher has been watering the 200-250 cm sugar maple saplings regularly, partially filling the tree-watering-bags with  40-45 L of water weekly. The trees were watered more frequently during the hot dry weather we experienced in June and July. The water soaks into the soil over a period of 4-6 hours, saturating the tree’s root zone.

It’s a year later and the sapling has grown to 20-25 mm stem caliper. The tree-watering-bag is in place, wrapped around the base of the tree and partially filled with water (40-45 L).

Note: This particular tree was planted in a more exposed location and required a stake to keep it upright while it grew new roots to support the tree. The stake will be removed in spring 2020 if the tree is well “anchored”.

On well-drained soils, 40-45 L per 25 mm of stem diameter/week should be enough water. Don’t overfill the bag as too much water can damage the roots by keeping the soil too wet. Water the trees every 4-5 days during hot, dry, drought-like conditions. 

An economical alternative to tree watering bags – a 20 L bucket with two small holes drilled into the bottom
 Alter the location of the bucket placement relative to the tree trunk by 90 degrees each time you water.
Alter the location of the bucket placement relative to the tree trunk by 90 degrees each time you water.

Above: You can also use a DIY tree-watering-bucket,  an economical alternative to the commercial tree-watering-bag that is shown in the background. Capacity of 20 L. Fill twice to provide the 40-45 L required for each watering. Alter the location of the bucket placement relative to the tree trunk by 90 degrees as you water the sapling during the growing season, to encourage uniform root development around the tree. The duct tape flap covers the “fill hole”, preventing small birds from entering the bucket to get a drink.

The consequences of failing to adequately water recently planted maples – drought stressed leaves as the tree slowly dies.

Year four and after:  you can relax a bit on tree watering in later years but be prepared to water during long periods of drought.

All About Maples Caring for your maple News

Q&A – What are those white blotches on my tree?

Posted by MLF Webmaster on
 August 22, 2019

Recently we had a question come to our mailbox about white spots on their trees’ bark.

MLF Tree Expert Carl Mansfield replied:

Your tree appears to have lichens growing on the outer bark.

Lichens are colourful crusts found growing on trees, rocks and other objects. They are often thought to be a pest or disease of trees and shrubs, but not so.

Lichens are non-parasitic plant-like organisms that pose no harm to the trees on which they grow. They use the outer bark of trees as a place to live and grow. They do not penetrate into the inner bark of trees and take no nourishment or water from the trees. 

A lichen consists of two different organisms engaged in a symbiotic relationship. One is a fungus, whose job it is to anchor the lichen to an object where it will grow. The other is a bluish-green algae that turns sunlight into food for the lichen. There are many kinds of lichens. They are spread by spores and tiny bits of lichen, blown on the wind.

Lichens aren’t often noticed until a tree appears to be unhealthy or dying; don’t blame the lichens. The only thing they’re killing is time.

  • Carl Mansfield, MLF’s Tree Expert
All About Maples Caring for your maple News Questions & Answers

Pruning young sugar maples – Tree care at the Maple Leaves Forever farm Part 3

Posted by MLF Webmaster on
 August 16, 2019

It’s been almost two years since we planted some 175-200 cm sugar maple saplings on the Farm. An arborist will recommend  that you wait at least 2-3 years before attempting any pruning but we knew a few of these trees could use our help.

Most deciduous trees and shrubs should be pruned when they are dormant, preferably in the early spring just before growth starts. Maples are an exception to the dormant pruning rule and should be pruned when actively growing in mid-summer. When pruned in early-spring, maples ‘bleed’ excessive amounts of sap. Pruning should not be done too late in the fall either, as wounds will not have time to heal before winter.

Sugar maple sapling, 200-250 cm, shortly after it was planted mid-May 2018. Note uniform branching structure and single, dominant terminal shoot.

Without some guidance, young maples can start to branch out in the wrong direction. Newly planted trees soak up the sun, moisture and nutrients as they regenerate new roots to strengthen and nourish the tree. They often need help finding their way during their formative years.

It’s almost two years later and this young maple needs some pruning. Note the multiple leaders at the top of the tree and imbalance of new growth on the right side of the tree compared to the left. Selective pruning will correct these conditions as shown in the tree below.

We did some light pruning during a recent tree inspection. The goal was to encourage the tree’s leader to grow by trimming competing branches. We began by removing any dead (leafless) or damaged branches. These were few and far between. We prefer to use bypass shears when pruning.

A few trees had many strong branches but lacked a central guiding leader. For these trees, we selected the strongest central branch to be the new leader and shortened the remaining co-dominant branches. Where experienced suggested doing so, a few of the larger competing branches were completely removed as we pruned to reestablish a single, dominant leader. Any new branches that were found growing on the lower parts of the trunk were also removed.

If there were multiple leaders at the top of a tree, we selected the strongest, best of the group and either reduced the competing leaders by 1/3 their length or completely removed them (if doing so did not remove an excessive amount of leaves). 

We limited pruning of these young maples to what was essential and made a note to revisit these trees after the leaves fall in October.

Elsewhere on the farm, we pruned several 60-70 mm caliper trees by removing or shortening branches that had an irregular growth habit. We removed the parts of any branches that were growing toward the center of the tree’s crown or downwards in any fashion and removed the smaller of any branches that rubbed against one another.

We reduced the length of many of the lower branches that will not be part of the permanent canopy of the larger canopy trees. A few we removed completely. We will continue to do this selective pruning as the tree grows. This raises the tree’s canopy (crown) providing clearance under the tree.

Removal of a competing branch within the crown of a young caliper tree. We prefer to use bypass shears for our pruning work.

Removal of a competing branch within the crown of a young caliper tree. We prefer to use bypass shears for our pruning work.

We reduced the length of most of the lower branches that will not be part of the permanent canopy of these trees.  A few, we removed completely. We will continue to do this selective pruning annually as the trees grow, raising the canopy (crown) until there is at least 1.8- 2.1 m of clear trunk  under the canopy.

We did not apply any tree pruning paint or wound dressing to the cuts. Using these products hinder the maple’s natural heeling process.

  • Carl Mansfield, Arboreal Consultant, Maple Leaves Forever
All About Maples Caring for your maple News

Lesson Learned – Weed trimmers can kill trees

Posted by MLF Webmaster on
 August 1, 2019

Last summer we visited a landowner who was concerned with the early-fall colour change several of the maples along his laneway displayed. Click here for related story.

  • Premature colour change indicated poor health for these maples.
  • Premature colour change indicated poor health for these maples.

Closer examination revealed that property maintenance staff had severely damaged the bark and underlying tissue around the trunk at  the base of the trees, while using a string trimmer to cut the grass close to the trees. This damage cannot be repaired.

  • Avoid using string trimmers around trees.
    Avoid using string trimmers around trees.
  • Tree damaged by a string trimmer.
    Tree damaged by a string trimmer.
New leaves withered and turned brown on the damaged trees.
New leaves withered and turned brown on the damaged trees.

We revisited the property a few weeks ago and found that the trees had made an attempt to grow this year. Even with the cool, wet spring, they didn’t have a chance. Within a week’s time, the new leaves withered and turned brown. Without the vascular tissue to transfer nutrients and water from the roots to the emerging leaves, the trees will die.

Keep string trimmers away from your trees. Use mulches to control weeds.

Keep string trimmers away from your trees. Use mulches to control weeds.
Keep string trimmers away from your trees. Use mulches to control weeds.
All About Maples Caring for your maple News

Early Fall leaf colour change indicates failing health

Posted by MLF Webmaster on
 August 1, 2018

Some maples exhibiting premature leaf colour change. Note the other healthy (green) maples.

Some maples exhibiting premature leaf colour change. Note the other healthy (green) maples.

Our Tree Guy answered a call from a concerned landowner with a tree problem. Several of the maple trees that lined his laneway were showing an out-of-season ‘fall-like’ colour change.

Premature leaf colour change is a reliable indicator of failing health.

First thoughts were that the trees were suffering from extreme drought stress. The trees hadn’t been watered this year. Trees that don’t get enough water, or are stressed for other reasons may stop producing chlorophyll causing the other pigments within the leaves to begin to show.

Further examination revealed the cause of the stress.

Severe damage to base of tree trunk caused by string trimmer.

Severe damage to base of tree trunk caused by string trimmer. The bark at the base of the tree has been stripped away, exposing the xylem tissue.

Routine property maintenance included the use of a string trimmer to cut the grass around the trees. Repeated use of the string trimmer had completely cut through the bark at the base of the trees that were showing the leaf colour change.

The”xylem” tissue, found under the bark, was exposed and had been damaged as well, reducing the tree’s ability to move moisture and nutrients from the roots to the rest of the tree.

A less severely damaged maple showing random leaf colour change.

A less severely damaged maple showing random leaf colour change

Five of the 22 trees were damaged beyond saving and will be expensive to replace. Several others will require attention to avoid additional losses.

An action plan was discussed. References were provided to help the landowner as he begins to make repairs to the remaining trees and attempts to improve their health.

All About Maples Caring for your maple News Questions & Answers

Watering trees especially important during summer drought conditions

Posted by MLF Webmaster on
 July 17, 2018

Maples and other trees can be damaged by drought stress in dry summer weather

Watch for signs of drought stress like the browning of the leaves on this young maple tree.

Southern Ontario frequently experiences hot, dry conditions during the summer months. When drought conditions are prolonged, these dry conditions can have a negative impact on our rural landscape.  Deep rooted species like oaks have a higher tolerance of drought than more shallow-rooted species like sugar maple, that can suffer temporary or permanent damage.

Drought periods that occur during the long-day months of June and July are more damaging than those in August and September because of increased day length. Dry summer breezes also contribute significantly to drought stress.

SIGNS OF DROUGHT STRESS

Close-up of leaf browning – sapling is showing signs of drought stress.

  • under-sized leaves; limited shoot growth
  • Tree leaves wilt, usually starting from the top of the tree, then downward
  • Tissue in the leaf margins dies, turning brown
  • Upward curling or rolling of leaves
  • Some species show out-of-season ‘fall-like’ colour change
  • Leaf browning (scorch) is a sign that drought damage has already occurred.
  • Entire leaves turn brown and fall from the tree

WHAT TO DO

It is important to apply enough water to thoroughly wet the root-zone to a depth of 25-30 cm

  • Install a mulch around the base of the trees, if none is present
  • Water the trees slowly and deeply at least weekly; supplement as drought conditions lengthen
  • Increase the frequency of watering when first signs of stress are observed
  • Water in the early morning, if possible to reduce water loss to evaporation
  • Consider the use of tree-watering bags to conserve water and time investment

Trees planted in the past 2-3 years, especially those planted on exposed sites, are more sensitive to drought than older trees. Their roots often struggle to replenish the moisture lost through transpiration from the leaves.

References:

Planting Container-Grown Native Maples
Maple Leaver Forever (2017), www.mapleleavesforever.ca Toronto

Watering Tips for Drought Conditions [PDF]
University of Maryland, 1000 Hilltop Cir, Baltimore, MD, 21250, Extension, HG 85, rev 2010

Caring for your maple News
Next Page →

Search this site

SUBSCRIBE!

Click below to sign up for updates on our activities, topical tree news and planting tips! We will only email you 3 - 4 times year. Not sure? Check out our previous email Newsletters. SUBSCRIBE TO NEWS >

MLF News Posts

  • Q&A for Potential Nursery Partners this week!
  • Winter Update from our Executive Director, Deb Pella Keen
  • Rockwood Forest Nurseries joins Maple Leaves Forever’s Partnership Program
  • To Prune or Not To Prune Maples in Winter?
  • Niagara Escarpment Views Magazine features Ken Jewett and Maple Leaves Forever

Categories

Topics

benefits of native maples caring for your maple Carl Mansfield featured article maple news maple seeds MLF Award nursery news planting planting tips Political action rebate sugar maple

Facebook Twitter Instagram LinkedIn Subscribe

Contact: info@mapleleavesforever.ca | 1 (888) 223-9181 (toll-free voicemail)
Maple Leaves Forever, 160 Thermos Road, Toronto, ON M1L 4W2

DISCLAIMER: Maple Leaves Forever and its support staff are not responsible for the use, misuse, or damage caused by application or misapplication of information mentioned anywhere on our website or application materials.

Maple Leaves Forever | Copyright © 2021 All Rights Reserved | Design & Setup by Maestra
  • Home
  • About MLF
    • Our Board of Directors
    • Our Team
    • Nursery Partners
  • News
  • Sponsorships
  • About Native Maples
    • Care and Planting Guides
    • What is a Native Canadian Maple?
    • Why do maples matter?
  • Thank You Rebate
  • Get in touch!
    • Donate
  • Search